![]() ![]() That combination of softness and playfulness makes brilliant sense as a powder ski! The Bent 90 just seems like a really contrived compromise of design characteristics to me. The best ski is the ski that's best for you, not me.Įdit: Lest I come off as a hater, let me just state for the record that if I got more DEEEP powder skiing, I'd get the Bent 120 in a heartbeat. I'm in the latter category, but my tele style is my tele style, and your tele style is your tele style. Hard-chargers, racers, and ski instructors kinda hate 'em. Freeride-inspired 50/50 resort/backcounty skiers, and whole armies of fanbros love 'em. My take? They're moderately easygoing skis that won't punish you for your mistakes, but won't give you peak performance in any category either. ![]() But they get tossed around in heavy crud, have barely mediocre edge hold on firm hardpack, and are pretty unstable at high speed. If you like a softish, loosish, lightish, "playful" freestyle-friendly feel, and you tele in mostly softish conditions, then yeah, the Bent 90s are pretty good tele skis. I'm inclined to say, stick with them for at least 5 or 6 more days, anyway.Depends on what you like in a tele ski. If you are not primarily interested in bumps, enjoy up to about 10" over groomed (who doesn't?), want a ski that's quick edge to edge and can carve well on hard pack or icier conditions, you might be best off with something around 88-92mm underfoot. I would say hang on for a bit, to get used to all the new inputs. IME, boot center over recommended on a ski like this is best. The first time I got out on the Freeride NTN at the beginning of the season when they first came out, I literally thought I would hurt myself getting off the lift at Brighton! And no, I'm not was embarrassing and alarming! It took me about 6 days to get to the point where I was starting to get used to them.ĭid you mount the bindings at the same place as on the Atomics? I can empathize if it's a combination of new gear. Normally this is defined by a set of two numbers, the first expressing the Base Edge Bevel and the second the Side Edge Bevel. I think you might break the code after a few more days. What is Edge Bevel and Why Does it Matter Alpine skis come from the factory with the steel edges carefully machined to a precise shape. I'm guessing it's the new boots/bindings. 18m, I think, at the same length) and similar rocker profile and width, based on my research. The 172 R10 has a turn radius pretty close to the Atomics you had (16m Vs. If that is the case, it could be that it's not just the skis. As Woods observed, it sounds like you've changed up boots, bindings and skis at the same time. I'm on a pair of 172cm Rustler 10's that are from the year before they added more metal, so there may be some differences between them and the ones you are on. You'll be able to dump the skis, but will you find something else to St Alum I'm hoping MT ST Alum checks in, he's on the Rustlers, NTN, and loves them. I'm a big proponent of detuning the rockerized portion and then some, but this is highly personal and YMMV. I get aggressive with it, but you can go progressively and see how it goes. Did you de-tune the tips and tails? I usually round off the edge from an inch after the rocker ends (skis flat together), going forward and back. I find skis with rocker right out of the factory are squirrelly, especially with tele. I've been telemarking for over 30 years and have always been able to dial in to a new pair of skis, but I just couldn't get it this time. The Rustlers seemed to get pretty shaky before I got any real speed and transferring edges felt awkward. I've been skiing Scarpa boots since the unveiling of the original and life changing T1s, but the NTN bindings were new to me, admittedly. ![]()
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